Ancient Kosovo

This past Saturday, the PHS crew went on a field trip in our new mini bus.








We head over to an archaeological site that is not open to the public yet, but we were able to get a private tour.

Ulpiana is the remains of an ancient Roman city.

The archaeological dig began in 1954 and because the property is private, it has not been the easiest to continue. On many occasions areas discovered had to be re-covered.

Ulpiana is the foremost Roman  Period  and  Early  Byzantine  settlement  in  Kosovo  and  in  the  wider  region (I-VII  centuries).  Belonging  to  ancient  Dardania  and  placed  near  the  important  via Lissus  –  Naissus,  it became  one  of  the main  cities  of  the Roman  province Moesia Superior  (Roman  province  of  Dardania).

The  city  flourished  during  the  Roman  and Early Byzantine Period, being an important political, economical and cultural centre.

During the Early Christian period Ulpiana became a significant religious centre. Florus and  Laurus,  the  two Early  Christian martyrs,  were martyred  in  Ulpiana  (II  century).

As we walked around the site, someone spotted poppy flowers beside the tombs. Apparently this flower commonly pops up when ground is disturbed. These poppy seeds could be many many years old and now sprouting for the first time since digging up the tombs.

Tomb of the rich (left) vs. tombs of the poor

a memorial found in the stone tomb

 

Grachanitsa Monastery

After Ulpiana, we drove over to a 700 year old monastery located in a Serbian village in Kosova.

Photography was not permitted once inside- I will try my best to communicate what was inside the gates. We followed a nun as she gave us a tour inside the church that centers the monastery. The king of Serbia built 1 church for every year he was in reign- 40 total churches! This church was his last. He summoned 2 monk brothers from Thessalonia who spent 3 years painting in the sides of the church. The church walls hold 4000 frescos. The color blue was purchased with 1 kilo of gold. Absolutely amazing art work. It is unbelievable to me that the paintings remain so intact. And to think 700 years ago what they looked like.

It is sad however, to see the curtain hanging separating the "holy of holies" (priest) from the common worshipper. In many ways this is a picture of how hypocritical Christianity can be. A fellow teacher, Darryl, and I discussed this on the bus ride back. It cannot the best example to display such rules and exclusion while at the same time profess Christianity is different from [communist] religions. I imagine those questioning their Muslim upbringing must be a bit confused- Why is praying 5 times and bowing down to Mecca viewed as so wrong? Christians worship a church filled of idols (paintings, crosses, figurines) and that seems okay... well, idolatry is idolatry no matter what religion it is practiced under. Thank God (literally) for Jesus- there is no longer a boundary up, anyone can come to God. The curtain is no longer!

And behold, the curtain of the temple was torn in two, from top to bottom. And the earth shook, and the rocks were split. Matthew 27:51

Welcome to PHS

September 13th was our school open house. With only 2 weeks into the school year, feeling unprepared was a definite understatement for me.  However, it went surprisingly well. There wasn't a huge turnout but I was pleased to meet the families/parents of 3 students.

The school is set about 2 miles outside the city, Pristina. Students arrive via school transportation- van or newly purchased mini bus. Parents do pay to send their child to PHS and it is not cheap for them. There are a small number of students on full scholarship. For the rest, their parents must pay and I believe that this is the largest deterrent from attending the school. While, ideally there would be no cost for attending, there just simply must be with all the different costs (including rent, utilities, maintenance and a few of the staff- those native receive pay for their work). The school is not making any profit- just holding on for as long as possible while trying to make an impact for the greater good of the city and country.

A photo-op of the new teachers + Shanae (2nd year)

Last time I heard, Prishtina High School had 106 students. This number is unequally distributed over the high school and more newly added, middle school grades.

I have 18 students total in my 10th grade English class, but this is split over two periods- 10 in one and 8 in the other. I am indeed blessed with 2 small class sizes. Some of my colleagues have up to 22 students in one class. And to think of those even larger class sizes that are typical in most public schools- I don't know how they do it. I feel truly blessed to be given this experience- an insider's perspective.


It is crazy to me that this last week was our 4th full week at the school- I have been an official teacher at the school for 4 weeks- crazy right? I have to admit, "Miss Flavin" does have a nice ring to it- especially when coming out of a whiny teenager's mouth. I'm not sure how this teaching role will play out in my future, but for now it is fun and challenging.

*In his heart a man plans his course, but the Lord determines his steps- Proverbs 16:9 

The Neighborhood

My flat is on the 4th floor of the building to the left

Here's a glance at my flat and it's surroundings.
We are blessed to live in a great area of the city- it is convenient (located right downtown and close to the straight-shot 50cent taxi to school), and in a safe and secure building. The 4th floor apartment with the windows belongs to the girls (Caitlin and Jackie) while mine and Shanae's apartment is on the other side. We do not get the sunshine bursting through our windows in the morning, but our apartment is much cooler on hot days, making it an even trade.



On the first floor (which is considered floor 0), there is an office front- graphic design? Our landlord lives on the floor below us and I have yet to meet the other tenants.

Directly diagonal across the street is a very popular bakery where supposably the best chocolate croissants in the city can be purchased for a mere $0.40! I, however, have yet to delight in such a treat- but plan on it either once my stomach gets better adjusted or I just can't wait any longer and give in.




Right around the corner from the bakery is this handy market- Albi. There are quite a few in the city and although the selection is limited, it comes in quite handy.

With the taxis lined up on the left of the street- what a perfect location for a casino? I have yet to step inside but there are several of these scattered around, one even tucked between a cafe and a grocery store downtown. I'm not sure what the odds are here but there is a fancy BMW parked out just waiting to be won.


In the other direction, down the hill, are several shops and things. Lately there has been firewood collecting/stacking going on- makes me miss home. I'll have to befriend someone with a fireplace- although something tells me the fireplaces in Pristina are not like they are in colonial New England.

Just a little further down the street, we come to one of the main roads in the city, Agame Ramadani. There are no house addresses and few labeled street names, so directions work by landmarks mostly. Another great thing about our apartment local is being close to The House of Sport. Do not be fooled by the large mural on the outside, the store itself is one room- smaller than our apartment. However, the store does have a couple racks of higher quality clothing and a shelf of active footwear. 


In general Pristina is like any city- lots of businesses, people out and about getting coffee or walking the streets... lots of traffic- especially during the peak hours. While there is this developing, modern side of Pristina, these photos really only show a piece of the puzzle that makes up Kosovo. Stay tuned as I uncover more about this fascinating new country.

Shanae and I on a typical school night (aka- me as I write this blog).

Bon Appetite!

This health-crazed-nut learned fairly quickly, she would have to make some adjustments to her previously strict diet of no grains, sugar, or dairy- unless she planned to starve to death here in Kosova. Browsing the grocery store shelves was a bit overwhelming the first few days here (and jet-lag added to this). There are some familiar looking jars, boxes, cans... but of course labels and ingredients are in Albanian or other languages making it a bit tricky. Thus, I set out on a food investigation/exploration to acquire some key nutritional ingredients.

Yes, that is me with a flat of eggs (30)

Step 1: Purchase local farm fresh eggs from staff at PHS. When I heard that there was a staff who owned 100 chickens- I knew I had to befriend him quickly (Ismet, the same man who invited us all over to his home for Byram). By my 3rd day in Pristina, I had 30 fresh eggs waiting for me at the school. And these are fresh eggs- there was even a feather stuck to one of them! So delicious and nutritious!

Sacro- in front of the honey shelf

Step 2: Locate the one and only health co-op type store in Pristina and befriend worker. "Sacro" <-Click the link to read the article that brought on my search for the store! Sacro has only been open for 4 months and little by little it is gaining popularity (I've been spreading the word of course) and growing it's inventory.
Here, I met Daniella and her teenage son, Alfred. I purchased a few things that day and made sure they knew I'd be back. Daniella and Alfred have since become my friends and food guides.









Step 3: Purchase ingredients for home cooked meals that I can feel good about (and safe) eating.

Dinner ingredients- notice the handsome little chicken

I've been in Pristina for just under 3 weeks and since been to numerous markets- there are so so many in this city- ranging from super markets to mini markets and outdoor venders. The big difference in the grocery stores here is the lack of options. The stock at the markets is the generally the same but there are those few [speciality] items at certain stores that I've had to hunt for. Such golden items include; wild rice, tahini, chickpeas, whole wheat flour...
Produce is all over the city but everything seasonal- that means a vast decrease in produce come the winter months. Also, everything must be washed very well- I've been doing a vinegar/water soak prior to eating just to be safe.
The meat was the next area for me to tackle. Daniella recently took me to the market she trusts for buying good fresh local chicken. Much of the chicken in markets is frozen- and this becomes a concern when there are frequent power outages- the fresh frozen thaws (potential for bacteria) and then re-freezes.


Step 4: Enjoy the local traditional cuisine.
I'm learning what a struggle and truly waste it is to  travel to a new country and get stuck on eating what you are used to. While it is nice to re-create those home-land dishes, I'm determined to try as much as I can while I'm here and even experiment with cooking as the locals do.

Pasul, Speca me meze, shopska salad, Ajvar and buke

One of the American teachers, Kelsey, had us over her house for a traditional dinner. She has learned a lot about the culture from her Albanian roommate. In the center is Speca me meze (grilled peppers in sour cream), the dishes around is the Pasul (white bean stew), shopska salad (cucumbers, tomatoes, onion, cheese, olive oil), Ajvar (roasted pepper spread) and bread for dipping. We all sat around and ate "family style."

The best part of eating here in Kosova, is enjoying a meal with friends. In a lot of ways, I'm grateful for the limits. Sure, I do miss certain things that cannot be found here,  but I'm starting to accept what is available and work with it. And slowly I am learning how the food we eat is a very small part of our lives. I figure, it was God who brought me here, and if His plan is for me to stay, He's gotta keep my body going :)
"And he said to his disciples, "Therefore I tell you, do not be anxious about your life, what you will eat nor about your body, what you will put on. For life is more than food, and the body more than clothing. Consider the ravens; they neither sow nor reap, they have neither storehouse nor ban, and yet God feeds them. Of how much more value are you than the birds!" (Luke 12: 22-24)

-A

Journey to Istog: Family, Farms & Fish

Istog

I had the opportunity to visit the city of Istog this past Saturday. A fellow student of PHS, Blendi, was heading to the city with his sister, Blendina, to visit his extended family. Corey, Shanae and I joined them. The city is about 1 ½ hour drive west from Pristina, on the border of Montenegro (according to Blendi, now the main road is 2 lanes- when in the past it would take more like a 2 ½-3hr to drive there).

On our way, we spotted a beautiful Catholic cathedral and decided to stop to check it out. It was the only one in its area for many years. One of the two nuns who live behind the church met us and insisted on giving us a tour. Inside, was scaffolding wall to wall and wires spread along the floor. Several men were at work but were happy to show us down to the newly discovered basement. A small prayer room was in the midst of being created- a beautifully, peaceful sanctuary. Stones meticulously placed to form crosses and lovely patterns along the sides and one of the men held a crushed piece of crystallized rock to the ceiling showing us his vision. The restoration is possible thanks to the donations. Men will stop by and offer their day to helping, while others contribute financially to the project. I imagine it will be spectacular when finished.

The Sister took us around the grounds showing us the other buildings, out door gathering space and garden that lie back behind the cathedral. We were handed delicious plums and shown the greenhouse. We said our thanks and continued on our way to Blendi’s grandmother’s house.

Blendi’s grandmother currently lives alone in the house her husband (of an arranged marriage) built for her but never lived in. A lovely home that is kept in pristine condition. We sat on the couch and Blendina helped put drinks and cookies on the table as her grandmother made us Turkish coffee http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turkish_coffee. Blendi’s grandmother has lived in the same area her entire life. It could be said that she has 2 birthdays; the day she was born and the day written on her birth certificate are very different. Serbia was in rule and sought to control everything including the ages a child would attend school; she attended only 5 years of school.

We proceeded on to visit a cousin and get a tour up a hill, which overlooks the city of Istog. Did I mention it was 104 degrees ferenheit! We were all dripping sweat by the time we arrived to our destination of the famous Trofta (trout) restaurant. 

This is like no other restaurant I have ever been to. A resort like setting, with hotel rooms, ponds with a plethora of trout, and so much seating- according to Blendi, a reservation is needed for summer evenings!

Being land-locked, fish is not a widely available food of Kosova. However, if in the mood for fish- there is one place to go. Trofta is a trout farm turned restaurant and motel with stores in Istog and Pristina.

Next stop- visiting a uncle, aunt and cousin. We sat on the couch as the wife brought us refreshments. It is customary for the woman of the house to serve guests. Before I had taken 3 sips of my drink, more was being poured to ensure it stay full. It is respectful to always take what is offered to you but still full from our late lunch, I had to ignore the cake placed before me. I asked Blendina to relay the message to her and she seemed to understand.

The uncle spoke about their farm that they were forced to abandon once the Serbs invaded the area. When they returned, they had to start completely over. We then all hoped in the car and went to visit the far that the uncle has worked on for the past 35 years.

Lastly, we visited Blendi’s other grandmother who is in her late 80’s and lives with family. This warm spirited woman held onto my hand squeezing it as she sat next to me. We were introduced to the children of the house and their pet bunny.

A long day indeed- but so so so amazing. I am really loving this culture and the emphasis that is put on hospitality and relationships.

Kosovo Religion

Long ago, the people of kosovo (Kosovars) were primarily Roman Catholic. In the 14th century, the Ottoman Turks conquered Kosovo and made Islam the new religion. Now, only 3% of the country is Roman Catholic. Serbian Othodox is the next greatest with only 7% practicing. The Islamic religion holds firm for the majority of Kosovars.

Kosovo is currently 90% Muslim although not all firmly religious, many continue to celebrate holidays and practice Islamic traditions. Kind of similar to the US with Christianity, Islam is the accepted fallback religion although many individuals do not identify with it, especially the younger population.

Carshi Mosque
Oldest standing building in Pristina today

Each day there is the call to prayer, which happens 5 times during the day where the Hoxha (prayer leader) reminds the people, over loudspeakers protruding from mosques, to pray. These mosques are spaced around the city, thus making the call audible from most locations. One of the girls woke up to the call this morning, stating it was extra loud and extra long (8minutes)- reminding us of the holiday.

These last 4 weeks the people of Kosovo (and other Muslim countries) have been celebrating “Ramadan.” During the month of Ramadan, Kosovars fast (no food or drink) everyday from sunrise to sunset. The reason for this is they believe Allah has told them to fast in order to avoid sins. And the reward for true fasting will be paradise. Ramadan is a time for re-commitment to the religion. During this time the mosques are often full of Muslims praying. “The Ramadan offers us the opportunity to start again and to forget the mistakes we made in the past. This is the time for our spiritual house to be thoroughly cleaned and to call Allah into each of its rooms.” <- This reminds me of how Christ died for our sins (past, present, future) so for Christians, there be no need for a lengthy fast, but rather If we confess our sins, He is faithful and just to forgive us our sins and to cleanse us from all unrighteousness- 1John 1:9.

Uraza-bairam is the holiday that marks the end of the fast in the holy month of Ramadan, the ninth month of the Islamic calendar. Today (Sunday) is Uraza-bairam- everything is closed on this day and the people celebrate in their homes with family, friends and plenty of food and drink.

I was invited along with the other new teachers to visit the home of a Kosovar/Albanian man who works for the school. I learned today that the women of the house stay home while the men visit the homes of family and friends, usually spending 15-30minutes per home. The wife usually has prepared a  snack (cookies, baklava...) and drink for the visiting guests. More and more I am learning how hospitable this culture is.

-A

References:

http://www.metaltraveller.com/en/trips/kosovo/prishtina_mosques.html

http://setimes.com/cocoon/setimes/xhtml/en_GB/features/setimes/features/2011/08/12/feature-05

First Impressions of Pristina

Jet-Lag Face in front of the airport

I arrived safely Tuesday at about noon local time. Kosovo, or Kosova to locals is +6 hours from EST so I have been going through a bit of a body clock adjustment, aka Jet Lag. Having not slept my first flight, I was EXHAUSTED upon arriving to Frankfurt but thank God, I navigated through both Frankfurt and Vienna airports. I arrived to Pristina with 3-4 hours of sleep on my side but feeling really good as I walked out the airport doors into the open air and saw Jill (Pristina High School principal) and Corey (PHS Business Manager) holding a sign with my name on it. Yeah I made it! After the photo, I was driven to lunch and then to my apartment.


The City- Pristina
Developing- that is the word that comes to mind. Similar to La Paz, there are many unfinished buildings and roads. However, there are modern architecture,  newly paved streets, and more Mercedes' and Ferrari's than I've ever seen. This is an interesting conundrum that I will write about more in length in a future blog.

The end of "Bulevardi Nene Tereza" (Mother Teresa Boulevard)
aka "The Walking Street"

Industrial, few trees, mountains in the background and desert like ground. There has also been a drought this summer making it dry and hot.
Not overwhelming large, not too spread out and everything you need is within proximity. Plenty of walkers, few bicycles, Pristina is not without the typical city traffic.

The Flat

The days following have been spent acquiring items for the beautiful apartment, Corey arranged for us to stay in. In a fairly modern building, I share an apartment with Shanae while the other 2 female teachers, Caitlin and Jackie live together across the hall. The apartment is fully stocked with the basic amenities (not sure if a flat screen TV is typical?). We also arranged for wireless internet, which spoiled me on the first day but has been less reliable since. We have hot water (which is awesome) for when we do have water. During the hours of noon and 4pm and midnight and 6 am- the water is shut off so taking a shower or washing clothes does take a bit of planning. So far it hasn't been too much of an issue (Lord knows I'm not high maintenance when it comes to showers). We keep a reserve of water in spare bottles for brushing our teeth and flushing the toilet. 

The location of our apartment is great- we are basically downtown, walking distance to most things and a quick 50cent taxi away from the school. I'll be taking one of those taxi's Monday to teacher orientation- I'm excited to see the school and learn more about our students.

I have lots to report on and I'm still trying to figure out how to keep it somewhat organized. Still to come- religion, people, food, currency, and lifestyle.

Lots of love from over here in The Balkans :)

-A