Journey to Istog: Family, Farms & Fish

Istog

I had the opportunity to visit the city of Istog this past Saturday. A fellow student of PHS, Blendi, was heading to the city with his sister, Blendina, to visit his extended family. Corey, Shanae and I joined them. The city is about 1 ½ hour drive west from Pristina, on the border of Montenegro (according to Blendi, now the main road is 2 lanes- when in the past it would take more like a 2 ½-3hr to drive there).

On our way, we spotted a beautiful Catholic cathedral and decided to stop to check it out. It was the only one in its area for many years. One of the two nuns who live behind the church met us and insisted on giving us a tour. Inside, was scaffolding wall to wall and wires spread along the floor. Several men were at work but were happy to show us down to the newly discovered basement. A small prayer room was in the midst of being created- a beautifully, peaceful sanctuary. Stones meticulously placed to form crosses and lovely patterns along the sides and one of the men held a crushed piece of crystallized rock to the ceiling showing us his vision. The restoration is possible thanks to the donations. Men will stop by and offer their day to helping, while others contribute financially to the project. I imagine it will be spectacular when finished.

The Sister took us around the grounds showing us the other buildings, out door gathering space and garden that lie back behind the cathedral. We were handed delicious plums and shown the greenhouse. We said our thanks and continued on our way to Blendi’s grandmother’s house.

Blendi’s grandmother currently lives alone in the house her husband (of an arranged marriage) built for her but never lived in. A lovely home that is kept in pristine condition. We sat on the couch and Blendina helped put drinks and cookies on the table as her grandmother made us Turkish coffee http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turkish_coffee. Blendi’s grandmother has lived in the same area her entire life. It could be said that she has 2 birthdays; the day she was born and the day written on her birth certificate are very different. Serbia was in rule and sought to control everything including the ages a child would attend school; she attended only 5 years of school.

We proceeded on to visit a cousin and get a tour up a hill, which overlooks the city of Istog. Did I mention it was 104 degrees ferenheit! We were all dripping sweat by the time we arrived to our destination of the famous Trofta (trout) restaurant. 

This is like no other restaurant I have ever been to. A resort like setting, with hotel rooms, ponds with a plethora of trout, and so much seating- according to Blendi, a reservation is needed for summer evenings!

Being land-locked, fish is not a widely available food of Kosova. However, if in the mood for fish- there is one place to go. Trofta is a trout farm turned restaurant and motel with stores in Istog and Pristina.

Next stop- visiting a uncle, aunt and cousin. We sat on the couch as the wife brought us refreshments. It is customary for the woman of the house to serve guests. Before I had taken 3 sips of my drink, more was being poured to ensure it stay full. It is respectful to always take what is offered to you but still full from our late lunch, I had to ignore the cake placed before me. I asked Blendina to relay the message to her and she seemed to understand.

The uncle spoke about their farm that they were forced to abandon once the Serbs invaded the area. When they returned, they had to start completely over. We then all hoped in the car and went to visit the far that the uncle has worked on for the past 35 years.

Lastly, we visited Blendi’s other grandmother who is in her late 80’s and lives with family. This warm spirited woman held onto my hand squeezing it as she sat next to me. We were introduced to the children of the house and their pet bunny.

A long day indeed- but so so so amazing. I am really loving this culture and the emphasis that is put on hospitality and relationships.